What Should I Put in My Corn Snake Tank?

If someone is going to pet a snake, then he must have this confusion regarding what to buy and what not to buy for him and his tank. Snakes are the reptiles wanting as much attention that you can give. A snake has requirements of his own similar to the other pets. A corn snake is a snake that is found in North America. The corn snakes are orange to brown in skin color, and they have slender shaped bodies with white marks on it. They somewhat resemble corn vegetables hence named so.

The snake tanks might consist of several items, such as pebbles for them to hide behind, eating bowls, water bowls, bushes and branches to climb upon, and various other things to consider. The water in the tank should not be chlorinated because it can cause irritation and itchiness on their skin.

The important stuff that you are going to need for your corn snake is mentioned here:

A cage:

What Should I Put in My Corn Snake Tank?

The snake is not going to roam here and there freely. He will be surely going to stay in proper caging. There are several resorts of the accessible cages such as a glass one, metallic one, plastic one, or of any other kind. However, the best corn snake enclosure is known to be the one that is glass terrarium. It enables the snake and the owner to connect visually. It helps the snake to understand its surroundings by staying inside the enclosure. The snake should not be able to escape from that cage, and it should feel comfortable in it as well.

 Heating tools:

Snakes are habitual of living in a warm climatic condition and prefer high temperatures. The reptiles cannot control their body temperature, similar to humans. It is suggested to do proper research regarding the type of snake that you are planning to buy because the temperature requirements vary from snake to snake. Then buy the heating types of equipment accordingly. You can also put heating lamps inside the cages to emit the proper amount of light and heat. They are convenient to replace too.

Hides and pebbles:

Snakes love to play hide and seek, and it is the responsibility of the owner to put enough coats in the tank, behind which the snake can hide peacefully. Burrows can also be replaced with the pebbles and stones as the snakes also hide in the burrows dug in the sand bedding. Unnecessary household items can also be placed as well in place of specifically made hides and pebbles for the snake.

Bushes:

The snakes are reptiles, and their natural most habit is to climb. Therefore, it is suggested to put some shrubs and saplings into the water tank for your corn snake. The bushes should not be edgy and need to be trimmed at regular intervals.

Bowls:

The snakes also need sufficient water and food to survive, and hence it is helpful to keep an adequate container for clean drinking water for the snake. The owner should be appropriately acknowledged regarding the food consumed by the species of snake that he is planning to buy. It is essential to refill the bowls at least two to three times per day.

Ultraviolet light:

What Should I Put in My Corn Snake Tank?

The snake needs enough amounts of Ultraviolet rays to stay healthy and free from diseases. The snakes are habitual of getting light of the Sun in the wilds, and they need the same in the tanks. There are specially made light lamps that emit a sufficient amount of ultraviolet light to reach the snake. It is advised to provide some natural sunlight to the snake for a minimum of 15 to 20 minutes every day. The lights in the tanks will look fascinating as well.

Size of tank:

There are various sizes of containers for corn snakes available, but the best corn snake enclosure is the one that is double from the measurement of the snake. Thus, the length of the snake should be kept in mind while buying a tank for him. It is advised to take suggestions from the people who have ever had any snake as his pet.

Drainage system:

The water of the tank should be changed every three to four days, depending on the prevailing climatic conditions of the particular area. The accumulated dust and dirt particles need to be removed from the tank regularly. The container must contain an excellent drainage system that helps in the refilling of the tank without removing the snake out of the shell. It also decreases the risk of the snake to slip out of your hands while the cleaning process of the tank is being performed.

Cleaning stuff:

The cleaning system requires utmost care when we talk about the tank of snakes. Because they shed their skin and along with it, the feces and their food particles need to be eliminated every two to three days. It is mandatory to maintain the hygiene of the tank along with the snake.

Trim bushes:

If the tank of the snake has shrubs and leaves inside it, then it is highly advised to keep trimming them every month so that their edges do not cause them any hurt and wounds.

Allergens:

It is nice to keep the snakes away from the allergens such as clove or cinnamon because some species do not like the scent of these things. Therefore, try to keep the snake away from essential oils made from these ingredients as well.

Final suggestions:

What Should I Put in My Corn Snake Tank?

The above-mentioned points show that the corn snakes are not habitual of the chlorinated waters, and their tank should have chemical-free water. The glass terrarium should be filled with enough hides and bushes to hide and climb the snake. The bushes should be trimmed down every two months, for they should not hurt the snake. The food bowls and water bowls should also be maintained for a minimum of twice per day.

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Gaboon Viper

The West African gaboon viper or (Bitis Gabonica) is the largest out of all the old world vipers. There have been individuals found up to 7 feet but an average of 6 feet is more common. They are also one of the most beautiful of all snakes. In the wild their strikingly marked bodies are near impossible to see among the ground and leaf litter. These guys are ambush predators that sit and wait for a meal to come walking through the game trail. They have the largest fangs of any venomous snake in the world. The fangs can grow up to two inches in length. Their natural habitat consists of dense forested areas and humid grassy areas.

LOCALITY

The West African gaboon viper inhabits Guinea, The Ivory Coast, Togo, Ghana, Cameroon, Benin, Angola, The Congo, and Gabon.

CAPTIVE HUSBANDRY

Keeping bitis species can be a very rewarding species to keep as long as every single requirement is met in order to keep them healthy and thriving. Correct temperature and humidity levels MUST be maintained and monitored every day.

TEMPERATURES

They live in tropical forests and do not do well in hot climates. They like it on the cool side. In some part of their range they almost never see direct sunlight in the wild.

DAY TIME TEMPS

On the cool end of the cage temps should be between 70 and 75 degrees.

On the warm end of the cage the temps should be between 75 to 85 degrees, maximum.

Temps at night can drop 5 to 8 degrees. I use light bulbs to heat the cage during the day and nothing at all for the night time. You can offer your animal a basking spot but they will hardly if ever use it.

HUMIDITY

The humidity levels for this species should be between 60% to 80%. You can allow it to drop a little if you will be cycling them for breeding…… This can only go on for a short period of time. Bitis’ can dehydrate very quickly. Too much humidity without proper ventilation can cause scale rot and upper respiratory infections. Too little and you will wind up with very jerky snake.

 HYDRATION

As mentioned above, the Bitis Gabonica can dehydrate very quickly. There are a few tricks I have learned over the years to keep them hydrated.

Always keep a clean supply of drinking water in the cage. Gaboons do not readily drink from standing water supplies but they will drink from one if they happen to stumble upon it in their travels.

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Misting the cage and it residents, at least twice a week is a must. They also require a full soak once a week for an hour or more. Another sure way to get moisture into their systems is to inject pre killed or frozen thawed prey items with spring water and or electrolytes. Also hooking them over to the water dish every couple of days will not hurt.

FEEDING

Feeding a healthy gaboon viper should be no problem at all. If you buy a gaboon viper and it does not eat within a week or two there could be some health problems.

Young gaboons can be fed more often than adults. Young can be fed two to three times a week depending on the size of the prey offered.

Adults can be fed one to two times a week also depending on the size of the prey offered……. Some people say that gaboons will become impacted if they are fed too often but the fact is if they are properly hydrated they will have no problems passing waste. Infact Gaboon vipers and other member of the bitis family have been known to retain enough fecal matter to make up 20% of their body weight. The reasons for this are not proven but some speculate it is for extra weight so they can stike harder and faster and more accurately. The extra weight is used almost as ballast. A lot of extra weight without all of the biological cost of muscle and bone. I also suggest not feeding your snake in its enclosure, especially if you are keeping it on a natural substrate. Also if you have 2 or more house together they should be separated during feeding time.

CAGING

As with any venomous species, gaboons should never be housed in an all glass aquarium with a screen top. Aside from the fact that they do not hold heat and humidity well there is the danger of being bitten through the screen top.

Vision cages are great for medium to large bitis. Young bitis should not be kept in visions because they can hide very easily under the sliding glass tracks.

Another good caging system would be Precision. These two styles of caging are the best for hots as they are solid and the sliding glass doors or hinged doors can be locked very easily.

SUBSTRATE

There are many different types of substrates that can be used to keep gaboons on but the one that I have had the least amounts of problems with is cypress mulch. It retains humidity well and gaboons love to bury themselves in it. I always suggest baking or microwaving any substrate before putting it in a cage to rid it of any bugs that may be hanging out in it. NEVER use pine or cedar shavings as a substrate because it is toxic and can prove to be fatal.

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